PUNJABI JUTTI Beaded and threaded, embroidered and embellished, in reds and greens and pinks and peaches, there is a beautifully crafted Jutti out there for everyone. Jutti is an Urdu word for a shoe with a closed upper attached to a sole. Juttis come in many variations according to regional tradition, period and shoemaker, and are adapted according to the environment and materials. Juttis were first introduced by the Mughals and were extremely popular amongst the royalty. Exclusively handcrafted by skilled artisans who primarily hail from Punjab, the making of Juttis is a tedious task, involving a lot of different craftsmen. Apart from the traditional thread and bead work, motifs and images have been used to stylize the Jutti with a more modern twist.Some designs are intrinsic and delicate, while some Juttis showcase plain or colored leather with just a few additional add-ons. Punjabi Juttis were originally made out of pure leather with exquisite embroidery and embellishments. It’s is the most versatile piece of footwear. You can wear it from day to day wear, weddings, religious occasions, to parties and festivals. It provides an essential ethnic appeal to the person wearing them. Jutti, also known as Nagra, was extremely popular amongst the kings and the queens who belonged to the richest era of Indian history. Rajasthan, in particular was a hub where the making of these exquisite shoes first originated. With the passage of time, Nagra shoes gained a lot of popularity in Punjab and underwent through various forms of experimentation and innovation. Exclusively handcrafted by skilled craftsman who primarily hail from Punjab, the making of Juttis is a tedious task. Construction of one pair of Juttis involves people from different communities.Construction of one pair of juttis involves people from different communities: the “Chamars”, who process raw hides, the “Rangaars”, who colour it and the “Mochis”, who assemble the pieces together and do the final stitching and embroidery. Beaded and threaded, embroidered and embellished, in reds and greens and pinks and peaches, there is a beautifully crafted Jutti out there for everyone. Jutti is an Urdu word for a shoe with a closed upper attached to a sole. Juttis come in many variations according to regional tradition, period and shoemaker, and are adapted according to the environment and materials. Juttis were first introduced by the Mughals and were extremely popular amongst the royalty. Exclusively handcrafted by skilled artisans who primarily hail from Punjab, the making of Juttis is a tedious task, involving a lot of different craftsmen. Apart from the traditional thread and bead work, motifs and images have been used to stylize the Jutti with a more modern twist.Some designs are intrinsic and delicate, while some Juttis showcase plain or colored leather with just a few additional add-ons. Punjabi Juttis were originally made out of pure leather with exquisite embroidery and embellishments. It’s is the most versatile piece of footwear. You can wear it from day to day wear, weddings, religious occasions, to parties and festivals. It provides an essential ethnic appeal to the person wearing them. JUTTI : MAKING AND ITS EVOLUTION (http://gaatha.com/the-sole-of-punjab/) The Jutti is one of the styles of footwear that has continuously evolved due to numerous influences from near and far. “Jutti” is an Urdu word for a shoe with a closed upper attached to a sole. Juttis come in many variations according to regional tradition, period and shoemaker, and are adapted according to the environment and materials. One of the unique characteristics of this kind of footwear is that they have no left and right distinction, and are inevitably flat-soled. In Northern India, especially in Punjab, the curled upturned toe is a common feature of footwear, as is the beautiful, intricate embroidery, which today is still executed completely by hand. Earlier, shoes which have come to be known as Punjabi Juttis throughout the world; were embroidered with pure gold and silver wires all over, covering the entire surface of the pair. Some experts were even able to make such light shoes the cobblers used to say that even sparrows could fly with them. Today, the jutti has evolved a multitude of styles, yet the fundamentals of its form and technique remain the same. Construction of one pair of juttis involves people from different communities: the “Chamars”, who process raw hides, the “Rangaars”, who colour it and the “Mochis”, who assemble the pieces together and do the final stitching and embroidery. The process of making this most desirable footwear starts from a tannery where raw hides are processed using vegetable tanning method. For this, a substance called tannin, which is extracted from the bark of Babool or Kikkar trees, is used. It is in the tannery that an animal hide becomes strong, flexible, water resistant and consequently, wearable. For colouring, sarfoola (yellow) and arsi gulabi (green) powderedpigments are mixed in water to make a thin solution of different shades of red and applied to the pieces of leather using a local shaving brush. This processed leather is then cut into the components of the footwear. The shoe upper, known as Panna, is made of one piece of leather or textile,embroidered and embellished with brass nails, cowries (shells),mirrors, bells and ceramic beads. Even the bonding from the upper and back (known as Adda) to the sole (known as Talla) is done by cotton thread that is not only eco-friendly but also enmeshes the leather fibers with great strength. While men handle the cutting, shaping and assembling of the shoe, the women work beautiful embroideries on the top, back and sometimes even instep of the jutti. Embroidering the juttis involves the use of stencils, for cutting and tracing designs on to the leather parts of the shoes. They range from simple cut-out shapes to be filled with simple embroidery, to intricate punches, weaves and embroidered designs. In Fazilka town, which is famous for ‘tilla’ (golden or silver thread, earlier made with real gold and silver) embroidery, intricate paper checks are hand cut by professional check artists, making it an art form in itself. These are pasted on the shoe uppers, backs and insoles and distributed amongst women who then embroider these with gold and silver tilla. Fazilka’s Tilla juttis are the most sought after, for their detailing of design, intricate embroidery and impeccable finishing. The most elaborate ones have every inch covered with the tilla and appear as if made of solid gold or silver, making them a class apart. In the towns Muktsar and Malaut, which are abodes of Punjabi jutti, the basic check designs are traced and embroidered on Rexene stencils, which are then pasted on top of the leather jutti. This method ensures faster completion, to meet the high demand these juttis have. Patiala being the biggest market for all types of juttis, has now a large variety of juttis in designs, keeping with the trends. Material and technique take many variations, with the use of velvet and machine embroidery, as well as lavish “dabka” (fine metal wires) work. Even among the basic juttis, there are many regional variations. The Salem Shahi Juttis are named after the Mughal prince Salim (Jahangir), and are characterized by a pointed, sometimes curled toe and a spade shaped sole.While the “Lucky” jutti is called so because of a narrow mid section, “luck” meaning waist in Punjabi, the Khussa juttis stand out with their upturned front representing the curled moustache of a “Punjabi Gabru”(Punjabi young man). The Kasuri juttis, with their unique toe indent design, transcend the borders, when people bring back these unstitched juttis to Maler Kotla, Punjab, from their relatives in Pakistan. With passage of time and dictated by technological improvement and market demand, many different materials, colours and styles are being produced. Although these novel styles are popular among trend conscious youngsters, the basic essence of this footwear still remains. There are many patrons who appreciate original craftsmanship and take only the finest of the handcrafted pieces. The survival of such rich crafts reflects the unstoppable spirit of tenacity and toughness of the Punjabis who enrich our culture with beautiful colours, unceasing passion and energy, and a zest for life. Pakistani khussa- zari work Saleem shahi khussa How It All Started? Jutti, also known as Nagra, was extremely popular amongst the kings and the queens who belonged to the richest era of Indian history. Rajasthan, in particular was a hub where the making of these exquisite shoes first originated. With the passage of time, Nagra shoes gained a lot of popularity in Punjab and underwent through various forms of experimentation and innovation. Exclusively handcrafted by skilled craftsman who primarily hail from Punjab, the making of Juttis is a tedious task. Construction of one pair of Juttis involves people from different communities.Construction of one pair of juttis involves people from different communities: the “Chamars”, who process raw hides, the “Rangaars”, who colour it and the “Mochis”, who assemble the pieces together and do the final stitching and embroidery. Earlier, Juttis were embroidered with pure gold and silver wires all over, popularly known as ‘tilla‘ covering the entire surface of the pair. The process begins with the method of vegetable tanning. After this, the painted leather is cut out into different shapes according to the requirement of the shoe design and embroidery is done with stencils, for cutting and tracing designs onto the leather parts of the shoes. They range from simple cut-out shapes to be filled with simple embroidery, to intricate punches, weaves and embroidered designs. Fine embroidery, pearls, beads, and stones have been used to give the Jutti a touch of elegance along with the essence of true Indian tradition. Interesting Facts About Jutti • A Jutti has no right or left distinction, any of them can be worn on any foot. • The curled upturn toe is one of the most distinct features which is particularly found in Punjab. • A Jutti is usually found in flat sole with a close upper sewn to it keeping it really light weight. Tradition of Leather Crafts(http://www.discoveredindia.com/punjab/culture-in-punjab/arts-and-crafts/leather-craft.htm) The state of Punjab boasts of a long and rich tradition of intricate leather crafts that range from leather stools, handbags, Jootis, Kolhapuris and Khussa which are quite popular not just in Punjab but also in other states like Karnataka, Maharashtra, Delhi and Rajasthan. These juttis are embroidered intricately and their production dates back to the reign of the Kings and Queens. In that era, these elaborate juttis were embellished with real silver and gold threads and accented with precious and semi precious pearls and gem. However, as the time passed, gold and silver embroidery was replaced by bells, beads and other artificial decorative materials which made them affordable to the common man. The Khussas and the juttis are manufactured with camel, cow or buffalo leather soles. The upper part of the jutti consists of any simple textile or leather. Both these parts are fused together by an adhesive paste and then, it is stitched using cotton threads, preferably white in color. How is the Khussa Made?Handcrafted, the khussa is a type of footwear produced in Punjab. The artisans make use of vegetable-tanned leather for making khussa. The upper section of the khussa consist of a single leather piece or any other textile embellished and embroidered with ceramic beads, bells, mirrors, cowry shells and brass nails. The khussa is bonded from the upper section to the sole by a cotton thread. Apart from being environment friendly, the cotton thread holds the leather fibers with enormous strength. Some of the product variants of the Khussa also make use of ornate or vibrant colored threads. In the pre-historic times, the Khussa was worn by the royalty and the multitude. Over the centuries, its style and designs have evolved greatly. Today, individual artisans manufacture these in an eclectic range of colors and designs. The Khussa encapsulates Punjab’s ethnicity, ethos and cultural diversity. Popularity of the Jutti Juttis made in Punjab are quite popular across the world for their elaborate designs and durability. Even though the silver and gold threads adorning these juttis are replaced by other affordable materials, the artisans do not compromise on the quality and the durability of this ethnic footwear. One reason why the juttis are so popular is that they are exceptionally light in weight. The medieval craftsmen have created unbreakable record when it comes to the lightness of these shoes. For them, the maxim was that the shoes should be as light as that even sparrows can fly away with them. Juttis worn by (Wikipedia) These ethnic shoes were worn by wealthy zamindars, chaudhary, nawab, jagirdars Maharajas and Maharanis of India (esp. Punjab), various designs showcased in this category are inspired from the Mughal era. All these are handmade by skilled artisans in remote corners of India. Jutti is the traditional Indian footwear popular in North India, especially in Punjab, Haryana and Rajasthan. It also has slightly different variations which are known as kussa or mojri. Beauty, vibrant color and utility are combined in these juttis of India. Rich golden threads and colorful beads are used to craft exquisite motifs in order to impart a royal touch on these juttis made of different shades of leather. People prefer wearing them on traditional occasions like weddings. Along with traditional dresses like sherwani or kurta pajama, juttis form the quintessential accessory. Types of juttis Mojari Mojari or Khussa or Saleem Shahi's is a style of handcrafted footwear produced in South Asia. They are traditionally made by artisans mostly using tanned leather. The uppers are made of one piece of leather or textile embroidered and embellished with brass nails, cowry shells, mirrors, bells and ceramic beads. Even the bonding from the upper to the sole is done by cotton thread that is not only eco-friendly but also enmeshes the leather fibers with great strength. Some product range also uses bright and ornate threads.[1] Multani khussa Khussa is a style of South Asian handcrafted footwear produced in Punjab Pakistan. Khussa is referred to a man's closed shoe with an extended curled toe, while as juttis have flat fronts. In juttis, rear is normally covered but Khussa have an open look from behind. Produced mainly in Multan and Rajasthan, West Punjab, these juttis were flat soled and there were no left-right distinctions between them. Nagra and Panna (http://www.utsavpedia.com/attires/put-your-best-foot-forward-in-traditional-indian-juttis/) The jutti has an M shaped front which is known as ‘Panna’ which is usually intricately embellished or designed with similar patterns on the side and back of the shoe. Nagras on the other hand, had a soft rounded front which was closed and resembled the modern day ballerina footwear. Most of the designs were inspired by Mughal architecture and Rajasthan’s rich flora and fauna. Common motifs used to embroider the nagras with, include flowers, leaves, birds, and other ornate designs. Also, Nagras were initially made with simple and elegant thread work. Various types of Juttis are available which suit every occasion. From hand-painted, to embroidered, sequined designs, Juttis are gradually taking on a contemporary style too. Some juttis come with a pointed and curved nook in the front which are for men, while the one’s for women have a simple and plain rounded or squared front. Juttis made for men usually have a single pattern and do not have the additional bling factor, also known as ‘Nagra’ Perfect for all Occasions (https://www.prlog.org/11734690-ethnic-and-trendy-footwear-punjabi-juttis.html) This traditional Indian footwear is suited for all the occasions. You can see women wearing the embroidered juttis with thread of various colours during festivals, marriage and even on daily basis. The kind of work which is found in these Punjabi juttis is also varied. For example for marriage purpose highly embellished jutti adorned with pearls and studs is immensely popular while for daily purpose simple Jutti with thread work can be seen worn by the working ladies and college girls on the daily basis. A STORY OF PUNJABI JUTTI IN HIS WORDS Walking the path of common tradition (http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/chandigarh/Walking-the-path-of-common-tradition/articleshow/8147596.cms?referral=PM) The magic of shimmering, colourful hues of the Punjabi Jutti has entwined people rent a part by Partition. They may live on two sides of the India-Pakistan border but share common folklore and songs. All of them have grown up hearing folk songs like ''Jutti kasuri peri na poori hai rabba sanu turna paiy' and ''Jutti lagdi vairia mere'. At CII's ''Made in Pakistan' fair, this traditional footwear proved to be a great binder. It brought together Mohan Singh Dhillon (63) ' who was born at 174 Chak (village) of Faisalabad, Pakistan, in 1947, but whose parents migrated to Patiala ' and Mohammad Javed (37), whose grandparents shifted to Faisalabad from Patiala. When Dhillon found Javed, a trader from his birthplace selling the footwear, he could not stop himself from asking about 174 Chak in Faisalabad. Surprised to find someone in Chandigarh curious about a village located some 10km away from Faisalabad city, Javed sought to know Dhillon's connection with the village. ''I never got the chance to visit my birthplace so I came to the fair hoping to meet someone from there. Javed has brought khushboo (fragrance) of my birthplace,' said a moved Dhillon. Soon, Javed was pouring his heart out. ''My ancestors used to stay near Sheranwala Gate in Patiala, but had to leave during Partition. I wanted to see the place as I have been told that ours was the third house near the gate, but I haven't got the visa for Patiala. Next time, I will definitely try to locate our old home,' Javed sighed, adding, ''Partition has divided us, but we want to live like one big family.' Lahori Juttis are special for Dhillon as his parents used to love them, and today this has enabled him to meet a person from his birth place. Javed said he had heard a lot about Sheranwala Gate from his parents. ''I will definitely share what Dhillon ji told me about Patiala with my family members,' he added. The juttis brought alive the past for octogenarian G S Chawla, who was a Class X student in Sargodha village of Faisalabad when his family moved to Patiala in 1947. "I had visited Pakistan in 1988 during an official tour and got the chance to visit my school, Company Bagh, cinema and railway station. Now, my last wish is to see my birth place again. I wish we were not divided by a border,'' he sighed. Tariq Siddiq, a trader from Lahore with whom Chawla shared his sentiments, said he never knew that Chandigarh had so many people who still pine for the sight of their birth place in Pakistan. ''People are crazy about Lahori, Peshawari, Punjabi and Kasoori juttis. I have got to know people who originally belong to our native place. They still remember the relatives and friends they left behind. It has been a great trade fair for us,'' he added. Why are Juttis so Popular? (http://www.chappals.co.uk/jutti/#History_of_the_Jutti) Juttis have been a popular choice of footwear for millions of Indian and Pakistani people for years and it’s no surprise that they have such an enduring appeal when you consider how versatile and affordable they are. Weighing little more than a beach flip-flop and often being equipped with a sturdy sole they will last a long time without making your feet feel like they’re encased in a sweaty foot tomb! One of the great strengths of Juttis is that the basic structure of the shoe is very simple meaning that what really sets a pair of Juttis apart is the way they are decorated. You can find so many different styles, patterns and colours of Juttis that you are certain to find a pair that will go with any outfit. ANOTHER HISTORY OF JUTTI IN THE WORDS OF AN ENGLISH MAN Records exist of elaborate versions of the Jutti being worn as far back as the early 1600s by Indian royalty. These were heavily adorned with gold, silver, priceless gems, jewels and pearls. Leather was regarded as being an impure commodity as it came from the bodies of animals. Those who handled the leather and crafted it into shoes were referred to as “untouchables” due to their contact with the impure. However because these elaborate shoes were created by those who were considered to be at the bottom of society it didnt take long for the Jutti to be simplified in order to meet the needs of regular people who quickly adopted it. ‘Foundation Stone’ of the ‘Footwear Design & Development Institute’ laid at Banur, Punjab (http://www.fddiindia.com/news/n_fddi_pb_sl_05032014.html) The ‘Foundation Stone’ laying ceremony of the Footwear Design & Development Institute (FDDI) was held on March 5, 2014 at Banur, District SAS Nagar (Mohali), Chandigarh-Patiala Highway, Punjab. “The FDDI, Banur, centre will be designed to cater all needs of footwear, leather products industry & the retail sector such as human resource, design, testing, consultancy etc., and will be a landmark in the development of Punjab.” - Mr. Raajeev j Lakhara, Managing Director, FDDI This initiative of the Govt. of India will be a big boost for the Leather sector of Punjab having major clusters at Patilala, Bhatinda, Muktsar, Malot, Abohar, Fazilka, Firozpur, Kotakpura, Gurdaspur, Amritsar, Jallandhar etc. Global Appeal Juttis are an ethnic alternative for the long established ballerina shoes that are popular world over. Several people living in countries like US, UK, Canada, Pakistan, Middle East, and Europe have been fascinated with this Indian footwear for the last several years, and some of the popular shoe brands in the west have copied Juttis in their own designs and craftsmanship. 12-10-16 COMPARISON OF PUNJABI VS RAJASTHANI JUTTI (http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/jaipur/End-of-the-road-for-Rajasthani-Jutti/articleshow/14088415.cms)
End of the road for Rajasthani Jutti #1 In the words of a shopkeeper Heeralal, who owns a shop in Hawamahal complains about the quality of jutti's. "Not many youngsters are interested in learning this craft these days. It's true that margins have reduced drastically with input cost increasing every day. It is no more a profitable business." He also informed that "to make a pair needs at least 2 hrs leaving margin of Rs. 30-40 per pair for the artisan. A man in a day makes not more than 3 pairs and earns just Rs.100-120 which is not enough. #2 Saifuddin owns a shop at Hawamahal Bazzar since 1958 and sported jutti's to countless men and women. He says "sale is not like before. People still love to wear jutti but because of because of highly professional life they don't get much opportunity to wear these days. It's mostly during marriages that they come and buy it." Punjabi jutti makers lose to new fashion From Jangveer Singh Tribune News Service (http://www.tribuneindia.com/2000/20000619/punjab.htm#10) PATIALA, June 18 — From making saddles for horses before Partition to juttis afterwards, the 520 exclusively Rajasthani households in the Old City who are responsible for the creation of the Punjabi jutti don't know what to do next as they are no longer able to eke out a living from the only profession they know . Members of the Jeengar Rajasthani caste who settled down close to one another in various mohallas of the Old City after being uprooted from across the border in 1947, are at present caught in a vicious circle. This is because the entire households are only engaged in making juttis. With children being trained into the art very early and mostly acquiring only elementary education, they are left with no option but to carry on with the family vocation. But the trade, which was their bread and butter for decades, seems to have itself been caught in a rut. There has been a decrease in demand due to the changing fashions as well as more comfortable footwear besides preference for simplicity which means more lower end juttis are produced which give little return to the karigars. The artisans are the losers even though the jutti may give a handsome profit to the retail shopkeeper. Talking to a number of artisans in Top Khana Mor, Churan Wali Gali, Jeejayan Wali Gali, Shastran Wali Gali and Toba Baba Dhiana where they are mainly settled as well as shop keepers in the main jutti bazaar in the old city, it was revealed that the artisans are barely eking out a living . ''My whole family is engaged in this work,'' says Mr Nagar Mal whose ancestors migrated from Montgomery district of present Pakistan . Mr Mal, his wife Shanti and two children are engaged in making juttis for nearly the whole day. While the menfolk do the cutting and stitching, the women do the embroidery work. Each person is barely able to do work earning him Rs 30 to Rs 35 per day. ''With such a low income, we are barely able to make ends meet,'' he says. Furthermore, the artisans have to buy the complete raw material for the juttis and after they are made, they have to sell the product to the shopkeeper. "Our position is always weak as we have to offload the prepared goods immediately,'' says Mr Mal. Besides this, artisans say they are mostly caught in a financial crisis which works out to the advantage of the shopkeepers who give them advance money and take the goods at competitive prices. Radha Krishan, another artisan, shows a jutti with a little thread embroidery, saying that this type of work is most in demand and gives the artisans barely Rs 65 per pair. They also have to live with lean months during the summer and monsoons. The artisans are also limited to the shopkeepers of the city or in some cases wholesalers from Delhi who contact them directly. An earlier avenue — holding of exhibitions in various states under the Central Handicraft Board has lost its charm as they do not get monetary support for attending the exhibitions.'' An end to support to small artisans means an avenue for the direct sale of his product has been lost to the artisan,'' says Mr Radhey Krishan who has been making juttis for the past 40 years . He alleges nowadays exhibitions are also cornered by traders. Mr Radha Krishan says an attempt could also be made to form a cooperative of artisans to ensure they are able to get adequate compensation for their labour. Shopkeepers in the Jutti Bazaar, while sympathising with the artisans say there is a general slump in the market. With the advent of jeans in a big way in the past few years and more comfortable footwear for women, there had been a decline in sale. Correspondingly, more Punjabi men were going in for sandals. For better or for worse juttis will, however, continue to be the only source of livelihood for the Jeengars. "The craft is in our blood and not even my sons are engaged in it. What else can we do?" laments Mr Radhey Krishan. Step by Step: The traditional Punjabi jutti has gone bespoke and designer (http://indianexpress.com/article/lifestyle/fashion/step-by-step-17/) To make the jutti more appealing to youngsters is another Delhi-based brand, Fizzy Goblet (www.fizzygoblet.com). The juttis, designed by Laksheeta Govil, are made of pure leather soles and back, canvas fronts with a splash of colour or original print work. While the season’s latest — an ikat collection — is truly trendy, their printed juttis are quirky. Interestingly, Govil took to designing juttis as she too wanted a customised pair. Elsewhere, in the heart of Patiala’s bustling old market, Adaalat Bazaar, known for traditional phulkari dupattas and suits, the jutti has a new look. From plain uppers, the footwear now comes with serious embellishments such as dabka, zardozi work and phulkari too. For those looking for some fun, there’s a jutti with a high heel as well. The demand overseas, says Chandigarh-based designer Rupam Grewal, has led to the revival of the jutti in a new look. Recently, she too has forayed into shoe design and has been stitching up bespoke shoes and juttis for brides under her label, Jaamawar Minx. “Earlier the jutti could never be customised, but now karigars are willing to incorporate everything from logos to embellishments,” says Grewal. Customisation is definitely the key. (https://www.amazon.com/Crafts-Punjab-Vol-Murree-Hills/dp/B00G3KNOVS) Crafts of the Punjab: Vol. 1 Murree Hills Hardcover – 1986by Dr. Saifur Rahman Dar (Editor), Naveed Asif (Introduction) Every craft is the artistic expression of the people of the Punjab and manifests their creative abilities. It is the people who strove throughout not only to defend their land but also to adorn it with the toil of their hands. It is in this process that they perceived the beauty in nature, came into harmony with nature and tried to transform that perception into the tangible. What in the paintings, handicrafts, hand-weaving, poetry - a rich heritage to hand down to posterity. The book is the first book of th series of books on the Punjab's handicrafts and introduces its readers to the crafts practiced in the Murree area. In depth research to identify the crafts and to study their origins and sociology was carried out by a team of experts from the Research Wing, who stayed and explored area. The struggle of the people of Murree to survive, and to mold the surroundings and objects to their benefits and needs, speaks of the strong will and the creative abilities of these mountainous people. It is with this background that the book studies the existing crafts in the Murree area and suggests means by which these crafts can be saved from becoming extinct. This series is a publication of the Punjab Small Industries Corporation. This book includes a bibliography and a glossary. TILLA JUTTI - TRADITIONAL FOOTWEAR THE ETHNIC FOOTWEAR of Punjab, the jutti, are hand-stitched with tilla (silver and golden wire), embroidered uppers and insoles. No nails are used in the construction of these jutti and no distinction is made between the left and right foot. The density of embroidery varies from region to region within Malwa, where most productin clusters are located. In Fazilka, a cluster where the craftsmen have migrated from Bhawalpur and Deepalpur in Pakistan, the jutti are embroidered in chequered patterns. Similarly, the jutti of Muktsar are characterized by the multicoloured tilla jutti from Abohar are extremely light,and perhaps due to the influs of craftsmen from Bareilly in Uttar Pradesh, no longer embroidered but embossed, cut worked, appliqued and beaded. The Muslim embroiderers of Malerkotla are renowned for their fine,dense embroidery of Shakarpar (rhombus), sunahare (golden), laharia (waves) and jali (trellis) motifs that cover the insole as well as the upper. The khussa jutti has an upturned toe resembling a proudly curling moustache. This is characteristic of the Patiala jutti, Jutti making is a family occupation;the women embroider the shoe uppers with the ari while the men construct the shoe using cowhide for the uppers and buffalo hide for the sole. Products Embroidered jutti Salem Shahi- embroidered insole Khussa-upturned toe Tools Ramba,Khurpa-scraper Shore-scalpel Summa-iron pestle Farmad-last Thappa-die Sua-needle Ari-cobbler`s awl Kundi-iron container
2 Comments
ankita jangir
7/21/2018 09:14:12 am
Can you please give some details about the artisans
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2/19/2020 03:36:36 pm
Interesting Article ! You can now buy handcrafted punjabi Juttis at reasonable price with different color and pattern.You can now explore our site https://www.threadstories.co.in/ for women to buy
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